Guatemalan inspired Outfit and Tutorial for E+E sewing series "Roots"

For the Roots sew-along at Elegance and Elephants, I decided to make an outfit that represented our Guatemalan roots. In Guatemala, the traditional outfit for women is composed of a huipil (a square cut blouse) and a corte (a skirt made out of hand woven fabric) which is also also accompanied by a faja (belt or sash). These outfits are only worn by the true natives or Mayan descendants of Guatemala. These outfits are usually very elaborate and embroidered with intricate and colorful designs. The Guatemalan natives weave their own fabric by hand, using a loom. The designs and colors embroidered and weaved on the fabric are not randomly selected. Usually, the colors and designs on these traditional outfits have a meaning (for example: they identify a specific town, marital status, fertility, etcetera).

I found good examples of the Guatemalan traditional outfits here: http://www.terraexperience.com/

The outfit that I made is inspired by the Guatemalan traditional outfit, however it is not identical because I would never be able to replicate these incredibly elaborate outfits. I also wanted to make it a mix of traditional Guatemalan outfit, with some Spanish influence and modern fashion trends.  

The shirt is made out a white eyelet cotton fabric. I decided to add ruffles to the sleeves, to symbolize the Spanish influence in the Guatemalan culture. Both the shirt and skirt patterns are self drafted (tutorial below). I also added a little bit of colorful embroidery outlining the square neckline a small flower is also embroidered on the center front of the shirt to add a pop of color!

I used the blanket stitch to outline the neckline

The skirt is made out of a woven fabric I bought a while ago. I also made a sash for the skirt, made out of the same fabric.
To complete the outfit, I also made a colorful necklace to add a splash of color (to compensate my lack of embroidery skill :) ) Here is what the completed outfit looks like: 

For the photo shoot I made a round flower crown, because, every time I think of Guatemala I think of Spring time. I think these flowers represent Spring very well!

Tutorial:

I'll quickly walk you through the steps I took when making these outfit. Let me know if you have any questions ;)

making the skirt

1. I measured the my daughter, from waist to knee and added 4" for the fold over waist style I wanted. I folded the fabric lengthwise (the width of the fabric is about 35") and cut the desired length. Then I folded about 3"of fabric over and pinned it in place, while trying to have a straight fold. 
2. I sewed along the pinned edge, while leaving about a 1 1/2" inch gap unsewn to insert the elastic. Insert the elastic and leave out both raw ends.
3. Stitch both raw ends together to fold a loop and sew the gap closed.
4. topstich rith above the elastic, to create a tight casing and forming the ruffled edging on the top of the skirt. 
5. To form the hem, fold about half an inch of the fabric and press to have a clean finish ( I serged all raw edges, but you can use your zig-zag stitch or fold in the raw edge to finish your hem).
6. You are finished with the skirt. 
7. To make the belt I cut a strip of fabric about 6" by 35", folded it right-sides-together. Sewed along the edges, while leaving a gap to turn it right-side-out and topstitched along the gap. Press the sash for a more professional look. 

making the pattern for the shirt

1. To make the shirt pattern, I used a shirt that fits my little girl well and traced it. I added some space (about 1/2 an inch) around the shirt for seam allowance. 
2. For the arm hole, I used the arm hole from the shirt as a guide and added about 2 1/2" space below to make sure it was going to fit my daughter well. I also made a facing to cover the raw neckline for the front and back of the shirt. 
3. I placed the facing pieces on top of my pattern pieces, to illustrate where these will be sewn. 

Sewing the front, back facing and shoulder seam

1. First place the facing for the front of the shirt (right side) on top of the front neckline and pin in place. Sew around the outline of the square neckline.
2. clip the corners (being careful not to cut the stitching) and fold the facing to the wrong side (inside) of the shirt front. Fold the facing in, leaving the raw edge inside of the fold. Pin in place and stitch along the outer outline of the square neckline. 
3. This is what it should look like.
4. Now pin the facing for the back of the shirt on the right side. Cut a slit in the middle, about 3" long, cutting both facing and back shirt pieces. Sew around the neckline and around the slit.
5. Clip the corners and turns (being careful not to cut the stitching and fold the facing to the inside of the back of the shirt piece. Pin in place and top stitch around the neckline and slit opening. 
6. Sew both front and back shirt pieces at the shoulder seam, having both pieces right-sides-together.